Chicken Thighs with Pineau

Chicken Thighs With Pineau de Charentes (aka Chicken on Fire!)

All of my notes through this recipe are in italics.

-J.D.

Pineau de Charentes is a delicious, yet tricky to find, fortified French wine.  Paula suggests using white wine with some cognac (brandy) stirred into it if you can't find the stuff.  I have done it both ways, and the substitution works just fine.

The sauce here is “short,” meaning there isn't much of it, but it's strong and aromatic, and every drop—just like the Pineau—is downright luscious.

INGREDIENTS

   * ½ ounce dried French cèpes or Italian porcini

   * 5 tablespoons unsalted butter

   * 2 pounds chicken thighs, 6 to 8 pieces, preferably from free-range chickens (I cook this recipe with 8 boneless skinless thighs.)

   * Salt and freshly ground pepper

   * 1 cup Pineau de Charentes, or substitute 2 tablespoons Armagnac or Cognac mixed with 1 cup semisweet white wine(The substitution works great.)

   * 1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots

   * ½ pound fresh cremini or white mushrooms, quartered

   * ½ cup heavy cream

   * 1 tablespoon minced fresh chives

   * 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh flat‐leaf parsley

INSTRUCTIONS

  1. Crumble the cèpes or porcini into a strainer and rinse well under cold running water. Put in a bowl and cover with 1 cup hot water. Let stand for at least 30 minutes. Drain the cèpes into a sieve lined with a paper coffee filter or several layers of damp cheesecloth set over a small bowl; reserve the cèpes and soaking liquid separately.

  2. Set a heavy 12-inch skillet over moderately high heat. Add 3 tablespoons of the butter; as soon as it sizzles, add the chicken thighs, skin side down (smooth side if using skinless.)Season with salt and pepper and cook without turning just until browned, about 5 minutes. Tilt the skillet and remove almost all the fat. Add the Pineau and, using a long kitchen match and averting your face, carefully ignite the liquid while it is still warm; the flames will flare quite high. When the flames subside, add the shallots and continue cooking, stirring, for l minute. Turn the chicken over, cover the skillet, and continue cooking over moderate heat until the juices from the thighs run clear when pricked and the pan juices are reduced to a glaze, about 25 minutes. Turn the chicken over and glaze the skin, then transfer the contents of the skillet to a platter. Wipe out the skillet.

  3. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in the skillet over moderate heat. Add the cèpes and fresh mushrooms and sauté for 5 minutes. Add the reserved soaking liquid and cook until reduced to a glaze, about 10 minutes. Add the heavy cream and boil until reduced to a sauce consistency, about 5 minutes.

  4. Return the chicken thighs to the skillet, skin side up, partially cover, and gently reheat. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve at once with a dusting of parsley and chives.